Artist’s Muse: Chuck Howard (part 2)

In 2022, the ever-popular Chuck Howard was one of the first profiles in our Artist’s Muse series. While romantically involved with artists Bernard Perlin and then George Platt Lynes, Howard was a frequent subject of the art they created, along with their fellow artist friends and cohorts. He later went on to a successful career in the fashion industry as well as a restaurateur. The original post was updated as new photos and info became available. However, the volume of recently discovered photos and articles about dear Chuck warranted a new post highlighting this work, primarily by George Platt Lynes and the PaJaMa collective.

Charles Frank “Chuck” Howard was born in Cochran, Georgia on March 4, 1927. While in his teens, the family relocated to Leesburg, Florida where Chuck attended the local high school. A popular student, Chuck took part in many activities including theater, band, and Youth Council. An honor society member, Chuck was voted “Most Intellectual” when he graduated in 1944. He then joined the Naval Air Force and was a tail gunner through the end of World War II.

Rollins College, Winter Park, FL 1947

While stationed in Miami Beach, Chuck met New York artist Bernard Perlin through a mutual friend. Perlin would later recall, “He turned up one day in his little white uniform. He was the cutest thing you ever saw, and he was just, golly, he was sculpted. He was also one of those very rare people who had a thousand best friends. Everyone loved Chuck, and Chuck loved everybody.”

After being discharged in 1946, Howard attended Rollins College before studying fashion in France on the G.I. Bill. He then relocated to New York City to live with Perlin. “Our fling was charming and sweet, because Chuck was sweet and funny,” Perlin said, “It was very gratifying.”

In 1948, Perlin was offered a residency in Rome and threw himself a farewell party. It was there that Chuck was introduced to George Platt Lynes.

Four sketches of Chuck Howard by Bernard Perlin

George Platt Lynes self portrait with Chuck Howard, ca 1948
Chuck Howard and George Platt Lynes, ca 1950

“Another twenty-one-year-old has moved in on me bag and baggage, almost without being invited…” Lynes wrote in a letter to his friend, author Katherine Anne Porter.

Howard was viewed favorably by Lynes’ friends and was said to have a grounding effect on the photographer. The relationship lasted for just over two years.

Chuck Howard with Lynes’ dog, Bozo

Wilbur Pippin & Chuck Howard, (ca. 1950)
Chuck Howard with Jared French in his studio at 55 St. Luke’s Pl., NYC (ca. 1949)

Although Howard had previously posed as a model for several Bernard Perlin sketches, it was after his introduction to Lynes and his circle of friends that he became a favorite several artists. He posed for George Tooker, sculptor John LaFarge, Paul Cadmus, and Jared French, with whom he also had a physical relationship.

When Lynes’ nude photography became more widely exhibited decades after his death, photos of Chuck Howard were among the most celebrated. Howard downplayed the photos, describing his work modeling for Lynes as “primarily lighting tests.” Collectors disagree.

Chuck Howard also had a film career of sorts when he participated in Dr. Alfred Kinsey’s famous studies, performing sexual acts with poet Glenway Wescott in front of the researchers’ movie camera. Howard later remarked; “It wasn’t Hollywood.”

Lynes and Howard parted ways in January, 1951. “Chuck has decided to go off and live by himself;” Lynes wrote to his mother. “I shall miss him but I don’t disapprove… I’m afraid that my influence is too often all-pervading, all-inclusive.”

Chuck subsequently embarked on a “tempestuous affair” with hustler / model Ted Starkowski, as mentioned in his own Artist’s Muse profile. In the summer of 1951, the couple posed for a series of photographs shot by Paul Cadmus and credited to The PaJaMa collective. Taken in and around Carrington House on Fire Island, these photos capture a level of intimacy seldom seen among gay couples at that time. An increasing number of these photographs have surfaced in recent years and are among the most popular credited to PaJaMa.

Act II: Chuck Howard’s career in the fashion industry began to flourish in the late 1950’s when he sketched for several designers, including Bill Blass. He worked for David Crystal before moving on to Anne Klein’s Junior Sophisticates. In 1965, he joined Townley, working his way up to become chief designer and head of business operations. The company was then renamed Chuck Howard, Inc. His design style was noted for its sense of humor with sporty, colorful coats, tunics, pants, and jersey shirts.

Around this time, a Parsons student named Donna Karan began working for Howard and he eventually introduced her to Anne Klein.

After Klein’s death in 1974, Donna Karan succeeded her as designer for the Anne Klein studio. Chuck Howard then closed his company and became a designer and creative coordinator there, where he was responsible for several of its collections. He departed with fellow designer Peter Wrigley in 1976 to form their own company.

Howard and Wrigley operated their business out of Chuck’s townhouse at 412 W 47th street – formerly the infamous party house of New Yorker editor Harold Ross and Alexander Woolcott.

Chuck Howard (r) with his partner Ed Vaughan in their restaurant (1981)

Act III: In 1980, after his departure from the fashion industry, Chuck Howard opened his self-named restaurant on Restaurant Row. Assisting him in this next chapter was his partner Edward Vaughan. The couple rented a three story townhouse at 355 W 46th St and lived on the third floor above the restaurant.

Soon after opening, twenty-two-year-old Anthony Bourdain took over running the back of the house. He later recounted his time at the restaurant in the “Chef of The Future!” chapter of Kitchen Confidential, with Chuck and Edward referred to as “Tom and Fred.” He writes, “They were genuinely lovely, intelligent, warm-hearted and funny older guys who cooked well, had impeccable taste and were considered (rightly) to be wonderful, charming and entertaining hosts – naturals, it had been said, for the restaurant business, especially a restaurant in the heart of the theater district where they knew and were liked by so many.”

Newark Star Ledger, (12/15/1982)
New York Daily News, (1/15/81)

The restaurant was initially successful, although the Daily News review suggested that it wasn’t destined to last. Bourdain further describes the restaurant’s decline, with mounting costs and dwindling guests. “What I learned… was a sad lesson that has served me well in decades since: I learned to recognize failure. I saw, for the first time, how two beloved, funny and popular guys can end up less beloved, not so funny and much less popular after trying to do nothing more than what their friends told them they were good at.” Bourdain moved on to another restaurant, and by the end of 1982, Chuck Howard’s had closed.

The couple retired to the island of Saba in the Netherlands Antilles where they lived for several years before settling in Santa Fe, New Mexico.

On October 5, 2002, Chuck Howard died of pancreatic cancer at the age of 75 in Albuquerque, New Mexico. He was survived by his partner Edward Vaughan.

Chuck Howard, ca 1950 / 1997

Chuck Howard’s life had a similar trajectory as fellow Lynes paramour Randy Jack: A WWII military man who became an artists’ muse before moving on to the world of fashion and finally ending up as a restaurateur. In their twilight years, both also enjoyed a bit of recognition for the work they inspired in some of the great American artists of the 20th century.

See also:
Artist’s Muse: Chuck Howard (part 1)
Artist’s Muse: Donald Windham & Sandy Campbell
Artist’s Muse: José “Pete” Martinez
Artist’s Muse: Randy Jack
Artist’s Muse: Wilbur Pippin
Artist’s Muse: Ted Starkowski
Fire Island Muses of George Platt Lynes & The PaJaMa Collective
Revisiting George Platt Lynes’ Fire Island Muses
Fire Island PaJaMa Party
Buddy & Johnny: A Historic Photo Shoot
Kenn Duncan After Dark
George Platt Lynes: In Touch Magazine (1982)

The Colorful World Of Carl Van Vechten

Carl Van Vechten wore several hats throughout his life: writer, literary executor of Gertrude Stein, patron of the Harlem Renaissance, and photographer. His portraits captured the most prominent figures of the Harlem Renaissance as well as New York’s top entertainers and literary elite.

L-R: Carl Van Vechten with Ethel Waters (1939), Langston Hughes (1939), Josephine Baker (1949), James Baldwin (1955)

While his images were not as meticulously lit or technically proficient as contemporary George Platt Lynes, his distinct style of low contrast, soft-focused images was consistent throughout his photographic career. Pictures snapped by Van Vechten in 1932 have the same tone as those taken shortly before his death in 1964.

L-R: Paul Robeson (1932), Truman Capote (1947), Marlon Brando (1948), Keir Dullea (1960)

His photographs have occasionally been featured here in posts about Madame Spivy and several Artist’s Muses.

L-R: Madame Spivy (1944), John LaTouche (1944), Sandy Campbell & Donald Windham (1955), Ted Starkowski (1956)

Given the level of continuity in his black and white photographs, I was pleasantly surprised to discover that he also utilized color slide film. Starting in 1940, he primarily used it for photo shoots with dancers from the American Ballet and later the New York City Ballet. The color slides beautifully captured their eye-catching stage costumes. He would sometimes use two cameras in these photo sessions, shooting with color as well as black and white film. The striking contrast of these photos provides further proof of just how vibrant the color images remain, 80 years later.

With certain male subjects – some of whom were part of Van Vechten’s bohemian social circle – the costumes would come off after the ballerinas had left the studio. Other photos have what are described as “improvised costumes” – sparkling fabrics and accessories paired with culturally appropriated props and patterned backdrops to further enhance these colorful images.

Alvin Ailey (1955)

Hernan Baldrich (1962)

Charles Blackwell (1955)

Robert Cohan (1955)

Robert Curtis (1955)

Anton Dolin (1940-41)

William Earl (1960)

Geoffrey Holder (1954)

Harald Horn (1956)

Hugh Laing (1940-41)

John Kriza (1949)

Claude Marchant (1947)

Arthur Mitchell (1955)

Francisco Moncion (1944)

Lenwood Morris (1940)

Donald Saddler (1941-1948)


Archie Savage (1942)

Paul Taylor (1960)

Claude Thompson (1959)

Allen Meadows & Hugh Laing (1940)

Van Vechten’s photos are now part of the New York Public Library Digital Collection and can be viewed online here.

See also:
Artist’s Muse: José “Pete” Martinez
Artist’s Muse: Ted Starkowski
Artist’s Muse: The Mystery Model
Artist’s Muse: William Weslow
Artist’s Muse: Donald Windham & Sandy Campbell
Buddy & Johnny: A Historic Photo Shoot
Kenn Duncan After Dark
Fire Island PaJaMa Party
Truman Capote in Mandate (1985)
Donald Windham On Truman Capote: Christopher Street (1988)
Madame Spivy: Why Don’t You?
Madame Spivy: I Didn’t Do A Thing Last Night

Remembering Photographer Lucas Murnaghan On His 50th Birthday

September 26, 2025 would have been Lucas Murnaghan’s 50th birthday. The celebrated underwater photographer and orthopedic surgeon lost his battle with cancer nearly 5 years ago on March 21, 2021. His longtime partner Antonio Lennert has kept his legacy alive with reissues and reprints of his finest photos.

From Murnaghan’s website: “Lucas was never defined by a single identity. He was an orthopaedic surgeon, a healer who combined precision with deep empathy. He was a photographer, whose underwater lens revealed truths about intimacy, masculinity, and vulnerability that had rarely been seen before. He was an entrepreneur, a teacher, and a storyteller. But above all, he was a human being whose curiosity, humour, and generosity touched everyone around him.”

In a 2020 Ted Talk, Murnaghan charted his path as an uptight overachiever following the family tradition by becoming a doctor, coming to terms with his sexuality and the circumstances that led him to become a full-time photographer and entrepreneur in recent years.

I started following Lucas on Instagram in 2018. I knew nothing about him but his photographs spoke for themselves: stark, striking images that often played with what he described as “the balance between vulnerability and confidence, pride and shame, solitude and connection.”



Murnaghan’s photo Suspended Animation on the cover of Bruno Capinan’s 2018 CD.

When he began to promote his photography, his initial impulse was to hide his “day job” as a medical doctor, feeling that it prohibited him from being taken seriously as a photographer, or having an artistic point of view.

photo-mar-23-11-41-45-pm-1

“I felt like I was entering the art world from the side door. Well, as it turns out, there is no front door. As an artist, that’s all we can do… gather up our entire lives and transmit it into our work. To do anything less than that is to not be honest with ourselves or our audience.”

Singer/songwriter Derek Macolly is the subject of several Murnaghan photographs.


For more images and information regarding his book Beneath The Surface, please visit www.lucasmurnaghan.com/

From the website:

“Today, as we celebrate his 50th birthday, we also celebrate the many lives Lucas touched—from his patients and colleagues to his collectors, collaborators, and friends. His photography remains not only a body of work, but a legacy: one that continues to challenge, inspire, and connect us.”

See Also:
Kenn Duncan After Dark
Artist’s Muse: Wilbur Pippin
Len & Cub: A Relationship In Photos
Don Herron’s Tub Shots
Don Herron’s Tub Shots II
Don Herron’s Tub Shots III
Don Herron’s Tub Shots IV
Fire Island PaJaMa Party
Provincetown PaJaMa Party
Adam Schlesinger: Not Just The Guy On The Right
Kurt Bieber: From Little Me To Colt Model
The Colorful World of Carl Van Vechten

Keith Haring In Heat Magazine (1992)

I was recently perusing (as one does) the June 1992 issue of Heat, a short-lived gay men’s magazine. Amongst the pictorials of cover boy Rob Cryston and fellow gay porn stars Karl Thomas and Sam Abdul is an article titled “The Life and Loves of Keith Haring” by Jack Ricardo.

Keith Haring, Untitled (1988)

Keith Haring photographed by Don Herron (1982)

Bill T. Jones painted by Keith Haring (1983)

Keith Haring photographed by Andy Warhol, Montauk (8/22/84)

Keith Haring photographed by Annie Leibovitz (1986)

This article was published just two years after Haring’s death. In 2019, Gil Vazquez became Executive Director of the Keith Haring Foundation, a role he held for 6 years.

Keith Haring photographed by Patrick McMullan, NYC (8/14/84)


See Also:
Don Herron’s Tub Shots
Kenn Duncan After Dark
Kurt Bieber: From Little Me to Colt Model
Artist’s Muse: The Mystery Model
Remembering Bob Harrington
Fire Island PaJaMa Party
Fire Island Muses of George Platt Lynes & The PaJaMa Collective
The Boys In The Band Pressbook (1970)
The Yale Posture Photos: James Franciscus
Costello Presley and 80’s Gay Porn Guilty Pleasures

Artist’s Muse: Wilbur Pippin

The latest subject in our Artist’s Muse series is Wilbur “Billy” Pippin, a friend, lover and confidant to a circle of artists that included George Platt Lynes, George Tooker, Paul Cadmus, Jared & Margaret French (aka the PaJaMa collective).

Wilbur Thomas Pippin was born on May 25, 1924 in Macon, Georgia. An only child, his father was employed by Railway Express while his mother worked at a dress shop. After the couple separated, Wilbur and his mother moved down the road to his maternal grandmothers house. He attended Lanier High School for Boys, where he was on the honor roll and received recognition for 5 years of perfect attendance. Upon graduation in June of 1942, he enlisted in the Army and served through World War II.

Back in Georgia for the 1946-47 school year, Billy enrolled as a freshman at North Georgia College in Dahlonega, three hours north of Macon. He became president of the drama club and was also voted “Most Versatile Cadet”. His academic career seems to have ended after that successful first year, as life took an unexpected turn in the form of a fellow named Fred Melton.

Sgt. Pippin – the Most Versatile Cadet at North Georgia College (1947)

Fred “Butch” Melton (1939)

We previously mentioned Fred “Butch” Melton in a profile of Artist’s Muse/writer Donald Windham. Butch was an Atlanta artist/photographer who moved to New York in 1939 with Windham, his boyfriend at the time. After the two split in 1942, Melton abruptly married Sarah “Sally” Marshall. The newlyweds settled in Greenwich Village and had two sons in quick succession. The growing family then moved back to Sally’s hometown of Macon, Georgia to live on land provided by her parents.

In the New York Public Library blog post Finding Frederick Melton, Stephen Bowie writes, “Melton dove into small-town Southern life with gusto. He built a modern house and workshop on the property, painted, and worked on the newspaper and in the local theater. But the experiment in conformity didn’t last.”

Whether Butch and Billy met doing local theatre or through some other social event is speculative. Suffice to say that Macon isn’t a very large town. In any case, the two found each other, and sparks flew. Billy did not return to college. In early 1948, Butch left his young family in Macon to move back to New York with Billy.

The couple moved into a cold-water tenement flat at 446 West 55th street in Hell’s Kitchen. Butch introduced Billy to the circle of gay artists that he had left behind 5 years prior. The striking young man soon began to turn up in their work.

Bernard Perlin & Wilbur Pippin photographed by Fred Melton in Cherry Grove, Fire Island (1948)

Wilbur Pippin photographed on Fire Island with George Tooker and Margaret French

Ballet impresario Lincoln Kirstein was apparently so fond of the couple that he tasked them with running Pippin Press, a silkscreen company he bankrolled and named after Billy. The original intent was to make collectible prints of ballet designs and the work of artists like Pavel Tchelitchev. Ultimately Pippin Press found more success producing custom silkscreen wallpaper.

Billy also began exploring photography alongside Butch, forming the “Melton-Pippin Photography” imprint for both of their work. Although he later enjoyed a long career as a fashion photographer, today Billy’s most notable photographs are his 1950 portraits of Jack Kerouac. It was one of these photos that was Kerouac’s choice for the original cover sketch of On The Road.

Jack Kerouac photographed by Wilbur Pippin (1950)

In early 1951, Butch and Billy had a new neighbor when their friend George Platt Lynes moved into the building. Lynes’ relationship with Chuck Howard had recently ended, and he was facing increasing financial woes. Lynes was initially pleased to have the couple as neighbors – Melton helped him with remodeling and silk-screening wallpaper for the living room. But he quickly grew annoyed by the couple “forever borrowing that old cup of sugar…” he wrote to a friend, “… or in their case it was more likely to be a bottle of gin.”

Wilbur Pippin & Chuck Howard, (ca. 1950)

Wilbur Pippin photographed by George Platt Lynes

Besides the thirsty neighbors, the far-west proximity and sketchy neighborhood did not sit well with Lynes. By September, he had fled back to the comfort of the East side, although his finances could not support it.

Fred “Butch” Melton & Wilbur “Billy” Pippin photographed by George Platt Lynes (ca 1951)

The couple remained friends with Lynes through the rest of his life, despite some difficult times. When Lynes fell out of favor with Lincoln Kirstein, Melton was named as his replacement as the official photographer for the New York City Ballet. In 1955 when Lynes was hospitalized with terminal lung cancer, Pippin was one of a small group of friends tasked by Russell Lynes to dismantle and pack up his brother’s apartment. George Platt Lynes died in December of that year.

With Pippin Press winding down, Billy went to work as publicity director for the New York City Ballet as well as press representative of the Broadway show Protective Custody, which opened and closed in late December, 1956.

By the end of the 1950’s, Butch and Billy had gone their separate ways. As with so many others, Fred Melton was dropped by the mercurial Lincoln Kirstein and had been replaced as photographer for the New York Ballet, just as he had replaced Lynes years before.

In 1961, Melton departed New York once again, leaving his collection of ballet negatives to the New York Public Library, intent on spending his last days drinking on the beaches of Puerto Rico.

Meanwhile, Billy was working steadily as a fashion and celebrity photographer for the New York Times. He traveled the world through the following decades as a freelance fashion photographer for Vogue and other outlets. In the late 1960’s, Pippin coupled with fellow photographer, Thomas Wier, Jr. For 30 years, the duo ran Pippin & Wier Photography in New York City. Their country home was an old converted schoolhouse in East Haddam, CT. They eventually amassed a menagerie of 15 cats.

The Commercial Appeal, Memphis, TN 10/29/64

Daily Messenger, Canandaigua, NY (12/12/1974)

In 1979, Pippin co-authored the book Catwise with actress Marian Winters. This was a collection of photographs Pippin had taken of his feline family, with classical quotes selected by Winters. Sadly, Winters succumbed to cancer just before the book’s publication.

Hartford Courant, Connecticut (12/14/79)

Pippin and Wier eventually retired to their East Haddam house. Thomas Wier Jr. died on 9/12/2000, age 70. Wilbur Pippin died on 4/30/2003 at his home, age 78.

In 2024, the A. Therian gallery in Cairo, New York featured Billy, an exhibition of rare and previously unseen photos of Wilbur Pippin taken by George Platt Lynes, the PaJaMa collective, and Fred Melton. This collection of photographs shed light upon the striking young man from Macon, Georgia who became a friend, lover and confidant to his great artistic contemporaries.

Wilbur Pippin, Egremont, Massachusettes (ca. 1948)

See Also:
Artist’s Muse: Chuck Howard
Artist’s Muse: Randy Jack
Artist’s Muse: Ted Starkowski
Artist’s Muse: The Mystery Model
Artist’s Muse: José “Pete” Martinez
Artist’s Muse: Forrest Thayer
Artist’s Muse: William Weslow
Artist’s Muse: Donald Windham & Sandy Campbell
Buddy & Johnny: A Historic Photo Shoot
Provincetown PaJaMa Party
Fire Island PaJaMa Party
Fire Island Muses of George Platt Lynes & The PaJaMa Collective
George Platt Lynes: In Touch Magazine (1982)
Revisiting George Platt Lynes’ Fire Island Muses

Artist’s Muse: Donald Windham & Sandy Campbell

I recently wrote a piece for the Fire Island Pines Historical Preservation Society titled “The Fire Island Muses of George Platt Lynes & The PaJaMa Collective.” It focuses on the subjects of the artwork they created during their time on Fire Island. This is an expansion on two of those profiled: Donald Windham and Sandy Campbell.

Windham & Campbell in Italy, ca 1950

Fred “Butch” Melton (1939)

In 1939, 19-year-old Donald Windham moved to New York from Atlanta with his boyfriend, graphic artist/photographer Fred “Butch” Melton. They were welcomed into the New York circle of artistic types that included George Platt Lynes, Tennessee Williams, Paul Cadmus, Jared and Margaret French.

Donald Windham & Fred “Butch” Melton photographed by Jared French at his 5 St. Luke’s Place studio (ca 1941)

In 1942, Butch ended his relationship with Windham, opting for a more conventional lifestyle by getting married, fathering two sons and moving to Macon, Georgia. This didn’t last long: Butch met and fell in love with local artist Wilbur “Billy” Pippin. In early 1948, he left his young family and returned to New York with Billy. But that’s another story…

Donald Windham with Jared French & Paul Cadmus on Fire Island, ca 1940

In 1942, the newly single Windham supported himself by working at Lincoln Kirstein’s Dance Index magazine. He lived in the Cadmus/French studios at 5 St. Luke’s Place while they spent time at their rental on Fire Island. He would frequently visit there as well. The lithe young man with the striking profile became the subject of many PaJaMa photos and sketches.

Windham posed as a reference for Jared French’s Homesickness (1942)

Paul Cadmus met 21-year-old Princeton theater student Sandy Campbell at a party in 1943. The young man asked the artist to do a pencil portrait that he could give to his mother, as he suspected that he would soon be drafted. Cadmus was instantly smitten with the handsome young man. He went on to draw, paint and photograph him frequently throughout the following year.

Campbell is the central figure of Cadmus’s 1944 painting Reflection. Donald Windham was the original model for the figure laying on the floor. Before the painting was completed, however, the two models fell in love. Cadmus was not happy with this turn of events, and Windham’s likeness disappeared from the finished painting, with the figure’s head turned slightly away.

Donald Windham & Sandy Campbell photographed by George Platt Lynes (ca 1943)

Photographer George Platt Lynes photographed both Campbell and Windham several times in separate studio settings. In 1945, he shot Windham again with his friend and writing collaborator, Tennessee Williams.

Donald Windham, Tennessee Williams & Edmund Gwen photographed by George Platt Lynes (1945)

Windham and Williams co-wrote the play You Touched Me!, a romantic comedy based on a short story by D.H. Lawrence. It opened on Broadway starring Edmund Gwen and Montgomery Clift in late 1945. Unfortunately, reviews were mixed and it closed 4 months later.

Around the same time, Campbell was cast in a string of minor Broadway and film roles that would span the next 10 years. He then decided to give up acting and focus on editing and publishing Windham’s work.

Donald Windham’s literary output (1950-1998)

Windham & Campbell photographed by Carl Van Vechten (1955)

Windham’s 1972 novel Tanaquil is a fictionalization of his time among the George Platt Lynes / PaJaMa circle of friends. His later work focused on correspondence and reflections on his famous literary friends, including E.M. Forster, Tennessee Williams, Alice B. Toklas and Truman Capote.

Campbell & Windham with Capote

Windham & Campbell, ca 1987

Windham and Campbell remained a couple for the rest of their lives. Besides their New York City apartment on Central Park South, they also had a Fire Island house on Ocean Walk in The Pines, where Campbell died suddenly of a heart attack on June 26, 1988. Windham outlived his younger partner by 22 years, passing in May, 2010 at the age of 89. Their combined estates fund the annual Windham-Campbell Literary Prizes, established at Yale University in 2012.

Jack Parlett’s 2022 book Fire Island devotes almost an entire chapter to Donald Windham’s 70-year span visiting the island. Parlett writes; “(Windham) was part of the very first generation to discover its potential as an enclave; first as a young man, visiting Saltaire with some of the earliest queer artists to incorporate the island into their practice; and later as a man in his fifties, happily coupled with the love of his life, who made in the Pines an enclave within an enclave, a restful home for two people, even amid the loudness of the community’s sexual and cultural boom in the 1970’s.”


See also:
Donald Windham on Truman Capote: Christopher Street (1988)
Fire Island PaJaMa Party
Fire Island Muses of George Platt Lynes & The PaJaMa Collective
Revisiting George Platt Lynes’ Fire Island Muses
Artist’s Muse: Wilbur Pippin
Artist’s Muse: José “Pete” Martinez
Artist’s Muse: Chuck Howard
Artist’s Muse: Randy Jack
Artist’s Muse: Ted Starkowski
Artist’s Muse: The Mystery Model
George Platt Lynes: In Touch Magazine (1982)
The Colorful World of Carl Van Vechten

Artist’s Muse: Forrest Thayer

I recently wrote a piece for the Fire Island Pines Historical Preservation Society titled “The Fire Island Muses of George Platt Lynes & The PaJaMa Collective.” It focuses on the subjects of the artwork they created during their time on Fire Island. This is an expansion on one of those profiled: Forrest Thayer.

Including Forrest Thayer in the Artist’s Muse series may seem to be a bit of a stretch. He was not a subject of George Platt Lynes (as far as I know) and was only captured by the PaJaMa photo lens during a short period in the late 1930’s. Nevertheless, the talented costume designer still deserves a mention.

Forrest Thayer photographed in the PaJaMa studios at 5 St. Luke’s Place (1938)

Forrest Glenn Thayer, Jr. was born on May 29, 1916 in Sag Harbor, New York. He was the first child of Forrest and Helen Sigmund Thayer. A younger sister, Helen, was born in 1919. His father was the assistant superintendent of the nearby Fahys Watch Case Factory. He later moved up to superintendent in the early 1920’s.

Both parents were active in the Sag Harbor community, appearing in local stage productions and soloing in the church choir. Mrs. Thayer was also president of the bridge club. When the Fahys Watch Case Factory was sold to Bulova in 1934, Forrest Sr. found work with the Keystone Watch Case Company in New Jersey. He moved to Riverside and would visit his wife and children on the weekends.

Forrest Jr. graduated from Pierson High school in 1933 and went on to study at the New York School of Fine and Applied Arts, now known as Parsons School of Design.

In 1936, Lincoln Kirstein organized Ballet Caravan, a company expressly dedicated to the commission and production of ballets with American themes. These would be created by American composers, choreographers, designers and dancers.  The company also provided off-season summer employment for his American Ballet company dancers, which included Kirstein’s paramour, José Martinez. 

One of dancer William Dollar’s first forays into choreography was Ballet Caravan’s production of Promenade, set to Maurice Ravel’s Valse Nobles et Sentimentales. 20-year-old Forrest Thayer designed the costumes for the production, which featured dancers Eugene Loring and brothers Harold and Lew Christiansen.

Promenade costume sketches by Forrest Thayer with photos by George Platt Lynes (1936)

Sag Harbor Express, 5/12/1938

Paul Cadmus and Jared French would each take a turn designing sets and costumes for Ballet Caravan: Cadmus with Filling Station (choreographed by Lew Christiansen) in 1937 and French with Aaron Copeland’s Billy The Kid (choreographed by Eugene Loring) in the Fall of 1938. Between those productions, the creative team took a trip out to Fire Island where the PaJaMa collective would retire each summer.

Forrest Thayer, Paul Cadmus and José Martinez at the Saltaire, Fire Island Ferry (1938)

Forrest Thayer frolicking on Fire Island with Paul Cadmus, Jared French and José Martinez (1938)

The PaJaMa photo “After The Hurricane” features (l-r) Jared French, Lincoln Kirstein, José Martinez, Forrest Thayer and probably Paul Cadmus. 

Forrest Thayer sketch by Paul Cadmus

Thayer spent the rest of the summer of 1938 as the scenic designer for the Studio Players in East Hampton, L.I. He continued to find freelance work regionally as a scenic and costume designer. In 1940, he was the scenic designer for the Provincetown Players in New York City. He spent the summer of 1941 working with the Hilltop Players in Ellicot City, Maryland.

During World War II, Thayer served as a staff sergeant in India and Burma from February, 1942 through December, 1945. He landed back in New York after the war and resumed his design career.

In the spring of 1947, Thayer tried his hand at co-directing a revival production of Percy Shelley’s The Cenci at the Equity Library Theater. Reviews were not favorable. During that summer, he directed an adaption of Jean Paul Sartre’s No Exit for the Maverick Players in Woodstock, New York.

New York Daily News, July 23, 1950

Back in New York City, his work with wardrobe continued. Over the next 5 years, he was a part of the following productions:

1947 – Crime And Punishment – Broadway with John Geilgud & Lillian Gish (assistant to Costume Designer Lester Polakov)
1948 – Inside U.S.A. – Broadway (assistant to costume designer Eleanor Goldsmith)
1948 – Cole Porter’s Kiss Me Kate – Broadway (assistant to costume designer Lemuel Ayers)
1949 – Noel Coward’s Present Laughter tour starring Edward Everett Horton (costume design)
1949 – The Philadelphia Story tour (costume design)
1949 – Garson Kanin’s The Smile Of The World – Broadway with Ossie Davis & Ruby Dee (costume design)
1950 – Cole Porter’s Out Of This World – Broadway (assistant to costume designer Lemuel Ayers)
1950 – Garson Kanin’s The Live Wire – Broadway (costume design)
1950 – The Jack Carter Show – NBC Television (costume design)
1951 – Music In The Air – Broadway (assistant to costume designer Lemuel Ayers)

In the fall of 1951, a week before the Broadway opening of Music In The Air, Thayer drove out to Sag Harbor for a visit with his mother. Wherever his career took him, he made frequent return visits to the family home on Jermain Avenue. He spent the evening of Saturday, September 29th in East Hampton visiting friends. As he was driving back to Sag Harbor in the early morning hours of Sunday, September 30th, he was involved in a single car accident. It was reported that he fell asleep at the wheel and struck a tree. He died the next day at Southampton Hospital.

Sag Harbor Express 10/4/51

The Thayer home is just a half mile down the road from Oakland Cemetery. Forrest’s funeral was held at the house, and he was interred with military honors at the cemetery. His parents are now buried there with him.

Eight of Forrest Thayer’s costume sketches from Promenade are a part of the Museum Of Modern Art collection, courtesy of Lincoln Kirstein.

See also:
Fire Island PaJaMa Party
Provincetown PaJaMa Party
Artist’s Muse: José “Pete” Martinez
Artist’s Muse: Chuck Howard
Artist’s Muse: Randy Jack
Artist’s Muse: Ted Starkowski
Artist’s Muse: The Mystery Model
Artist’s Muse: Donald Windham & Sandy Campbell
Artist’s Muse: Wilbur Pippin
George Platt Lynes: In Touch Magazine (1982)
Fire Island Muses of George Platt Lynes & The PaJaMa Collective
Revisiting George Platt Lynes’ Fire Island Muses

Fire Island Muses of George Platt Lynes & The PaJaMa Collective

I am pleased to announce that I have penned an article for the Fire Island Pines Historical Preservation Society website titled “The Fire Island Muses of George Platt Lynes & The PaJaMa Collective.” It focuses on the subjects of the artwork they created during their time on Fire Island. See the full piece here: https://www.pineshistory.org/the-archives/fire-island-muses

Paul Cadmus & Jared French, Fire Island, PaJaMa (1940)

I have previously written about The PaJaMa collective’s Fire Island summers. They were frequently joined by fellow artists George Platt Lynes and Bernard Perlin, as well as a parade of friends and lovers, performers and literary types from their New York social scene. They were almost exclusively attractive young gay men who served as models and muses for the artists.

Chuck Howard & Ted Starkowski, FI, PaJaMa, 1951

10 of these men are profiled in the piece – several of whom have previously been featured here. The others will inevitably get more in-depth profiles in the future:
José “Pete” Martinez
Forrest Thayer
Donald Windham & Sandy Campbell
Jonathan Tichenor
Randy Jack
Ted Starkowski
Chuck Howard
Jensen Yow & Jack Fontan

Paul Cadmus: Two Boys On The Beach (1938) / Two Boys On The Beach 2 (1939)

Margaret French, “The Moon by Day”, 1939

Thanks to Robert Bonanno for reaching out and John Dempsey for the feedback and formatting!

See Also:
Fire Island PaJaMa Party
Provincetown PaJaMa Party
Revisiting George Platt Lynes’ Fire Island Muses
Artist’s Muse: Wilbur Pippin
Artist’s Muse: William Weslow
Artist’s Muse: The Mystery Model
Buddy & Johnny: A Historic Photo Shoot
Donald Windham on Truman Capote: Christopher Street (1988)
New York City In Touch (1979)
Gay Times #69 (1978)
George Platt Lynes: In Touch Magazine (1982)

Don Herron’s Tub Shots Part IV: Christopher Street (1980)

Back in 2018, I posted two collections of artist/photographer Don Herron’s Tub Shots, a series of images featuring the famous and near-famous posing in their bathtubs. This coincided with an exhibition of 65 photographs at the Daniel Cooney Gallery here in NYC. The blog posts (Pt. 1 and Pt. II) still garner a considerable amount of traffic, as well as a third collection posted 2 years ago. Now we have a fourth selection of the collection: a Christopher Street magazine feature from April, 1980 and recollections from the subjects.

The April, 1980 issue of Christopher Street, with football player David Kopay sharing the cover with a very nice Tom of Finland illustration.

Among those featured in the Christopher Street layout was artist Mel Odom, who shared memories of the experience in Pt.1.

Ronald Chase is a San Francisco-based artist, photographer, educator, independent filmmaker and opera designer.

Demetrie Kabbaz (1944-2014) was a painter known for his highly stylized portraits of Marilyn Monroe and other iconics of pop culture.

The article mentions a 1981 exhibit at Jehu gallery in San Francisco. The tub shot of gallery owner Ron Jehu (1937-2007) is also included alongside actress Mink Stole and popular San Francisco DJ Sheila Rene (1939-1998).

Writer Felice Picano: “Don came to my duplex at 317 E 11th Street, now owned by Annie Leibovitz and he was a sweet man, so he climbed onto the back of the bathtub where he was cramped but also supported by two walls and he shot a bunch of photos.

“He then asked if I could recommend others to shoot, and I sent him to either George Stavrinos or to Victor Hugo (Halston’s lover). By the time Don was done, he had gotten a pretty full and accurate portrait of Bohemia In New York City in the period. And, as I wrote in my book Art & Sex in Greenwich Village, Don captured what was probably the last unified downtown NYC bohemian community.”

Peter Hujar (1934-1987) was a photographer primarily known for his portraiture. His photo is featured on the same page as fellow photographer Robert Mapplethorpe (1946-1989). Annie Leibovitz would later recall, “Peter and I shared a distaste for Robert. One of the reasons is that Peter thought Robert was silly, you know, which he was. And he thought that Robert copied him in certain ways, which of course he did.”

Belle de Jour was New York’s most notorious dominatrix in the 1970’s and 1980’s. She ran a successful commercial dungeon and a weekly S&M theatre in her midtown loft. Submissive men, suburban couples, and thrill seekers were known to fill the bleachers to watch Belle and her entourage perform.

Don Herron‘s own Tubshot can be seen in this ad for a 1982 gallery showing:

Sur Rodney Sur recounts his tub shot: “We used the bathroom of Cynthia Chiarulli’s loft for the photo shoot, which was styled by Suzan Silver, a jewelry maker who made her wares from mirrored plastics she purchased on Canal Street. She provided the lipstick and sprayed the sides of my hair silver.

“I used the photo for the cover of my first book of poems… I organized an exhibition of Donald’s prints at the Tribeca club Stilwende and also showcased Suzan’s jewelry. I also screened a new version of my TV talk show – the All New Sur Rodney Sur Show. Sometime after the event I produced a version of my talk show where I interviewed Holly Woodlawn in a bubble bath for a photo shoot with Donald in a television studio in Chelsea.”

Valery Oisteanu: “I remember being introduced to Don by Timothy Greenfield and Don was part of the East Village Arts scene. He was very friendly. I was writing a monthly column at that time in Cover Arts magazine called ‘The Wall Patrol’ about art galleries…. Don took a photo of me naked wearing a Mylar face mask and there are also butt plugs as a humorous prop.”

Colette Justine (aka Colette Lumiere) is a multi-media artist who is considered a pioneering street performance artist and “photographic tableau vivant.” She is also known for playing with male/female gender roles through different guises and personas.

Käthe Kruse, performer/artist: “I was staying with John Heys when he was photographed by Don. When we met in John’s apartment and he saw my hair, he asked to photograph me too. So after the shoot with John, I got off my clothes and laid down in the bathtub and he arranged my hair. Then he climbed up to the edges of the bathtub and started to photograph. He told me that he always takes the same number of photos (eighteen) and then he stopped. I love these kind of concepts. When I was back in Berlin I received one print and after all these years it is still hanging in my home. I love the photo and I am very happy and thankful to have been photographed by Don.”

Photographer/visual artist Christopher Makos (1980)

Stanton Weiss (1952-2022): “New York in the 1970’s was an unparalleled place. There was an edge to it and a feeling that anything could happen. I had a seemingly conservative job working for Dick Ridge, the renowned interior designer. The phone rang. ‘Stanton darling, it’s Pat. Don Herron wants to photograph me and I need to use Dick’s tub! My bathroom is being painted.’ Pat was Pat Loud, America’s first reality star of PBS’ An American Family. She is a stunning woman, and unlike other reality stars, she is the epitome of grace and style. She posed with calla lilies and then Don asked me if I would like to be photographed as well.”

Pat Loud (1926-2021): “I recall Don calling me to say he was doing a series of photographs of people in their bathtubs and would I pose for him. I told him I didn’t do bathtubs but he assured me that nudity was not his objective and I could use all the bubble bath I wanted…. I don’t know whose idea the calla lilies were that seem so dominant and strategically placed and yet so out of place for such a photo.”

Dick Ridge (1928-2021): “I received a phone call from Pat Loud, who asked me if I would pose along with other people of the moment for a picture in my bathtub. Having just returned from Southampton, I had a pretty good tan and decided ‘Why not?'”

Poet Michael Ratcliff, Performer/Fashion designer Katy K (Kattelman), Legendary nightlife performer Joey Arias.

Marcus Leatherdale (1952-2022) was a Canadian portrait photographer who was personally and professionally associated with Robert Mapplethorpe.

Michael Musto: “Don contacted me with the idea of photographing me in my bathtub. I thought that was a novel idea, especially since I usually took showers, not baths. He wanted the photo to express my eccentric side, so I wore the shower cap, shades and white lipstick. I found Don to be likeably quirky and creative. This was a time of horror because of the mounting epidemic, but it was also a time when LGBT culture, nightlife, and solidarity were on the rise. I used my Village Voice column as a venue for both anger and humor at the same time, while also expressing myself via fashion and nightlife antics. Don’s photo captured my multiple moods.”

See Also:
Don Herron’s Tub Shots part I
Don Herron’s Tub Shots part II
Don Herron’s Tub Shots part III
Kenn Duncan After Dark
Gay Times #69 (1978)
Blueboy 1980: Gays of NYC
John Waters in Blueboy Magazine (1977)
New York City: In Touch For Men (1979)
Keith Haring In Heat Magazine (1992)
Mandate 1988: New York Redefines Drag

Bindle Zine #2 Is Here! Winter 2024

The Winter, 2024 issue of Bindle Zine is out and once again my husband Tobias and I are delighted to be included in the collection of writers and artists, which you can find here. Toby’s artwork, “The Second Time You Die” is inside the front cover and he also contributed an illustration to accompany my essay, “General Slocum.”

The Second Time You Die by Toby Fox Ferrari

General Slocum

I was sitting at a table outside the Life Café when the self-appointed mayor of Avenue B waved his change cup towards Tompkins Square Park and said “It’s just beyond those trees – a pink marble monument, engraved on one side: In Memory Of Those Who Lost Their Lives In The Disaster To The Steamer General Slocum, June 15th, 1904– 1,100 or so lost – they never did get a total- burned on board or drowned in the East River. Women and children, mostly. The heart of this neighborhood, they said.

“You go ’round to the front of the monument where a boy and a girl look away from you – gazing back towards the river with faces obscured by design and a century of wear. Can’t hardly read it anymore but it says: They were Earth’s purest children, young and fair.

“Below that, a lion head spits water into the fountain with a stream that arcs over 100 years, as if to say ‘Here I bring you water to douse the fires in which your loved ones perished…this water, tamed of its currents that swept away your young. Here it flows in its simplest form as you reflect upon what has been lost.’

“But nobody reflects. ‘Cuz nobody remembers. That monument – erected so they would not be forgotten – has been forgotten.”

bin•dle (noun): a bundle of clothes or bedding, stereotypically carried on a stick by runaway children and transients

“We all wander through our lives, and we collect memories, possessions, and relationships. Bundle them all together, and you have yourself a bindle. Our zine represents a collection of writing and art and photography – a bindle of creativity that we send across America, a tramp in search of a mailbox.”

See Also:
Bindle Zine #1 – Summer 2023
Zombie Divas
Circle In Monkeyshines: Winter 2022
The Tin Man & The Lion: Unanswered Prayers
The Lion In The Emerald City: Promise Of A New Day
1991: Homo Alone
Debbie At The World (1989)
We Got Hitched
Pride Parade (2011)
Sunshine & Tinsel: A Canine Christmas Tail
Maybe.